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This will probably sound really strange, but I started watching Survivor two episodes into all-stars and was absolutely hooked all the way through. It was a bit overwhelming at first, but it was a really fascinating season. The heroes and villains were clearly defined and the twists were really exciting. I had to sort of rely on the CBS websites to work out who the players were, but it was a really exciting time to be following Survivor because it was clear that Survivor was a long-running show that had made a lot of progress over the years.
Of course, this sort of ruined the first seven seasons for me, and I've never really gone back to watch any of them in full, mostly because I know most of the good bits and just don't have the time, but I would like to eventually.Lots of people will say that I don't really understand or appreciate Survivor because I haven't seen all of Borneo, but I think that if you're not going to start there, it's perhaps best to start with All-Stars, because that sort of sums up what Survivor had been through for the first seven seasons, and I've been able to follow the game's development from there.
Also, Vanuatu was very gripping for me as my first full season because it was the first time I'd seen the battle of the sexes, and it was so easy to root for anyone after a few episodes. In terms of twists it was quite simple, but the best parts of the season were driven by the characters themselves, such as the power shift. I've seen every episode since, and even have to download too keep up with the US (TV networks in Australia are really stupid).
For example, one of my friends who I had been bugging for a while to start watching Survivor sat down one day when it was on TV, and saw the Cook Islands mutiny episode. He loved it so much that he then went back and watched the beginning of that season, as well as all of Vanuatu and Amazon (for no reason other than that they were the easiest to download). He's now hooked and trying to get Exile Island before Micronesia starts.
I think that if someone is really going to like the concept of Survivor, the season that they start on will make no difference whatsoever. Either you're a fan or you're not, and if you only like one particular season because it was 'the best', you're not necessarily going to like any others, or even the game itself in general.